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There were fireworks. Immersive travel it was not. We headed to our pre-Pirate Night dinner. And where did all these adults get their costumes? She was utterly delighted, and I was delighted with her delight. Hygiene is, understandably, a huge deal on the ship. Neither thing, frankly, had ever seemed like my bag, but with my wife, Nancy, and I beaten down by a stretch of brutally cold weather in New York, and Anna increasingly Disney-obsessed, the time felt … if not right, then inevitable. We passed on the products they had used during the massage, which were for sale. Because we had been late for dinner, we ended up late to the party, on Deck 10; a stage was set up in front of the pool, which was covered by a wooden dance floor. Nancy went on a relaxing bike ride and we all met up back at the tram station and reboarded. Slightly alarmed, she told me she would look into it. I spend that time, reading, sunning and cooling off in the water. I thought about the people on that boat, and the ones on the decks below us. What to wear to the Pirate Night party? I had signed up for some in advance. My relationship with Disney has always been a little fraught. My bartender, Alejandro, from Peru, was friendly and knowledgeable. It was not my first bar visit of the trip. I met Anna and Nancy at the boutique. We wondered about the cabin next to ours, which, judging solely by their verandah space, was much, much larger. In addition to the wipes, the kid centers have devices that might best be described as washing machines for hands. I picked up our snorkel gear and floatie — as well as a frozen margarita at Conched Out Bar, steps from the beach. Anna was understandably amped up and not ready for bed. Had we missed a memo? It was all dizzying. And Italian-ish. After that, it was back to our stateroom, on Deck 6 of 11, to order room service and watch one of the half-dozen or so channels entirely devoted to Disney-owned content. After a brief primer on the four glasses in front of us, we were asked to sample and guess the varieties. I went snorkeling, where I saw more fish — so plentiful and friendly that a thought flashed through my mind: Did Disney stock the area with sea life? Anna had chosen Ariel as her makeover of choice. Dan Saltzstein is an editor of the Travel section of The Times. Not-at-all-pro tips: Sign up early and preregister your children at the Disney Cruise website — many events book up quickly. There are two seatings nightly, and you are directed to one of four restaurants around the ship, the idea being that you get to try each one. I wondered if they were starting to have a good time too. It was time for dinner. It took us a while, but we convinced her to go to dinner, then head back to the room to get dressed. We soon went ashore to Nassau, our Bahamian port of call for the day. Things had not started well even before we boarded, actually. By end of day, she had gotten both the outfit and the hat. They probably brought them, and many had packed special costumes for their kids. Our daughter was feeling especially shy — despite having talked for weeks about meeting the princesses — so Nancy and I took the photo and I gave Olaf a hug. I spent a lot of money on drinks, a princess makeover and Disney merch. We had to delay our flight to Miami because Anna had a fever and a cough. Mickey saved the day by flying in on a zip line and got the party back on track. Almost every activity, it would turn out, ended with a gentle upsell. Mickey, it should be said, was everywhere, which I found sort of sweet — in an age of princesses, the nonagenarian mouse has still got it: He was branded on the giant smokestacks that top the ship and on the toiletries in our tiny bathroom. Home Page World U.{/INSERTKEYS}{/PARAGRAPH} Speaking of that stateroom: It was tiny — square feet to be exact. It was time for our dinner at Palo, the adults-only restaurant on Deck We dropped Anna off at the Oceaneer Club and headed up. After a while, we all met up; Anna was in her dress, her hair done up in a fake bun, tiara and sparkles, makeup on her face, wielding a light-up wand. We had bought a package that included snorkeling gear, bike rentals and a big floatie ring for our daughter. Her cough had held on, but her fever had abated, so I nervously signed the paper, waited on the serpentine line to register and get our cruise cards they serve as both ID and credit card while on board and, for Anna, a wristband that she had to wear at all times. Like Keys, it was a simulacrum, though this time of a fancy Italian restaurant. {PARAGRAPH}{INSERTKEYS}I asked a uniformed crew member when we could expect the machines to be refilled. Our waiter had a heavy Italian accent, yet was from Serbia. Our Anna learned to love pirates and magicians. Our last full day on the Magic was our most promising. But wait, everyone was already in costume. We did, though, go on a glass-bottom boat ride, past homes owned, according to our chatty and charming guide, by Tom Cruise, Michael Jordan and plenty of other multimillionaires. Many readers had passionate reactions to this article. After a night in Miami, we headed to board the ship — though before we could, we had to sign a paper indicating that no one in our party had a fever and a cough or a handful of other symptoms. I spotted Alejandro, the Peruvian bartender from the piano bar, now in more casual dress, doling out cheap beers in plastic bottles. Nope, sorry kiddo. We collected some of them — positive and negative — here. It may not be the biggest cruise boat on the seas that became clear when we docked next to the real behemoths in the Bahamas or even in the Disney fleet, but its dimensions are still impressive: 11 decks, feet long, Activities were legion. The weather had improved, but we failed to stray from the dock-adjacent blocks filled with restaurants we chose one more or less at random and chose badly , knickknack shops and hair-braiders. Over the course of the next four days, many of my fears were confirmed. I had signed Nancy and myself up for a couples massage later that afternoon — hey, we deserved a break even on day one, O. After some time walking around the ship with Anna, Nancy gently suggested we head down to the beach. I found all of this charming and touching. Then we took a family photo in front of a sailing-themed Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck and boarded the boat, along with more than 2, other cruisers. Our daughter slept comfortably, according to her on a small couch that converted to a bed; a curtain divided her area from ours. It turned out Anna had made the right call: It was sunny but cool and very windy; fellow passengers shivered down touristy Duval Street buying their T-shirted kids oversized sweatshirts. At the tasting, the pleasant Jamaican bartender who led our small group asked if we were whiskey fans. We saw brightly colored fish and got a free keychain. Other activities were noted on a daily schedule dropped off at our Deluxe Oceanview Stateroom With Verandah. I shook off the idea and headed back to pick up Anna. It also plays host to Friday night Shabbat services. While splashing around in the shallow bay water, vivid blue fish swam right up to us, as if they, too, had gone through Disney staff training. Various Disney characters took the stage, alongside pirate performers constantly hyping up the crowd. He seemed very pleased to present us with an antipasti cart — slices of prosciutto, chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano, marinated peppers — which he then, without asking, doused with aged balsamic vinegar. We took a brief but romantic walk around the promenade deck, and stared off into the blackness of a vast ocean, interrupted only by another cruise ship that glowed miles off in the distance. Perfect for sun and swimming! We headed to dinner, but Anna — perhaps freaked out by all of the costumed passengers — had a fit of nerves. With Pixar, Marvel and the Muppets now under the Disney umbrella, I could probably list two dozen of them that we as a family love and watch regularly. Another upsell, but also a pretty good deal. The food was fine, but the service was stellar, as it was everywhere on the ship. What was I missing? Or we could have gone ashore to Key West, our first stop. Anna proclaimed the trip one of the best experiences of her life. I adore the movies.